The winter period is perhaps the most difficult for a car, and in particular for its battery. During cold starts, the battery suffers very much - it loses its charge, and cannot be recharged normally, because it is cold (as you know, a cold battery charges much worse). And if you travel short distances, for example, 15 minutes to work by car, you get chronic “undercharges”. In general, once a month, and maybe more often, you need to recharge with a special charger. But here another question arises - how to do it right? Do I need to remove the battery or can I do it without removing it from the car? After all, now in the car there are so many electronics that you can burn. Let's figure it out...
It seems to me that the problem is "sucked out of the finger" out of the blue. All modern chargers can charge your car, even if the terminals are not removed from your battery, that is, it is connected to the on-board system. If you are a happy owner of a garage, just come into it, open the hood without removing the battery and terminals (though if they are clean), put on the wires from the "charger" and charge to the desired parameters! ALL! Nothing will burn out, it will not short-circuit, none of them will “fly”. Whoever says this simply does not understand the structure of the car.
After such a statement, now many can tell me - JUSTIFY, which is what I want to do. However, before that, I want to note that now there are two main types of cars, this is conditionally the “old” carburetor type, there are fewer of them every year, but they still exist. And conditionally "new" injection type, the vast majority of cars. In this article, we will analyze each option separately. BUT first, a few words about overvoltage.
There are a lot of reviews and discussions on the Internet on this topic. Some write that it is necessary to remove the terminals, and if not removed, then this threatens with complex breakdowns. Others write that nothing terrible will happen and you can charge without removing it. BUT one opinion is NOT here!
I suggest you think logically. In terms of electrical equipment.
What's wrong with the wrong charger? YES, everything is simple - high voltage, at which electronic devices can hypothetically burn out, even if they are de-energized through the ignition switch.
So, many chargers give out a voltage of a maximum of 15V, it can do little to the on-board electronics, because the generator often gives out about the same voltage.
However, there are specialized charging systems designed, say, for calcium batteries, where the voltage can be 16 - 17V, which can already be critical for many electronic systems.
So right from the start. We take into account that the MAXIMUM on-board network can digest 15V, otherwise we get an overvoltage and the ability to disable the car's electronics.
There can be no problems at all - NO. There is simply nothing to burn here, because there is no ECU here! Except, but even if it fails, then most likely it will simply recharge your battery. BUT the charger does not affect this relay in any way! How is the charge system of this option. The diagram is a little exaggerated, but it is needed just to understand the process.
After starting the engine, the generator begins to generate energy, it is closely connected to the engine crankshaft through a belt drive. The energy is spasmodic, it is removed by special “brushes” from the rotor. Further, the energy is “rectified” through a special “relay-regulator rectifier”. It gives a constant voltage, say 13.8 - 14.2V, sufficient to charge the battery.
It is clear that during the operation of the power unit, the generator also feeds all the other equipment necessary for igniting fuel, lighting, etc., the battery in this mode is simply charged.
The generator cannot recharge the battery, everything is controlled by special “relays”, this is the mechanical principle of charge.
In a carburetor car, there are no specialized control units at all, here many operations are performed mechanically.
Actually, if you do not remove the battery from the car, connect the ends of the charger to the terminals, and the engine will not work at this time. Nothing terrible can simply happen, the battery will be charged in the same way as from the generator, and the “relay” will essentially be de-energized. Personally, I myself did this many times, on my VAZ 2101 - 2105.
These are modern units, in which there is a lot of electronics. In general, motors have now evolved a lot, it's a bunch of electronics, sensors and other things. The main device that controls everything is, of course, the ECU (Electronic Control Unit). Not only charging is controlled, but also ignition and other car functions. If you pull out this block now, then the car will become just a “piece of metal”.
However, for a generator, the evolution is not so noticeable. Again, it unwinds from the engine crankshaft (belt connection). It again has a “relay-rectifier”, and it again feeds the system at the time of starting the engine and recharges the battery.
BUT now the power goes not just to consumers, but also to the "brain" of the car's ECU. Hence the myths were born that - if you connect the charger without removing the terminals, and the battery itself from the car. Then this "charging" will disable it.
However, this is not true! Let's think logically:
I can assure you with confidence that the battery can be charged without removing the terminals from the car. Nothing bad will happen.
I will say even more - now many fancy cars (usually an elite class) that have several ECUs, an additional one can be used for secondary equipment. In general, it is not recommended to remove the terminals from the battery. Because certain settings may go astray, for the resumption of which you will need to visit the stations of an authorized dealer.
That's when you should not throw contacts from the "charger" - this is a running engine. After all, here there is power from a regular generator + you still supply power from the charger. First of all, either the generator can be damaged, the “relay-rectifier” can burn out. Or you can burn the “charger” itself, it is not designed to work with a running engine.
And even in such conditions, the ECU is unlikely to burn out, I want to repeat it again - the charging itself will most likely suffer.
However, if you want to charge the battery without removing it from the car, you should take care of the car's terminals. Sometimes, due to oxides and other deposits, corny moisture, charging will not be possible, or incorrect data will be indicated!
(AKB) is a specially designed type of lead-acid battery for motorized vehicles and is used to start the engine and operate on-board electrical equipment when the engine is stopped.
The battery in the car is charged by an electric generator. To prolong battery life and protect the car's electrical equipment from overvoltage, a relay-regulator is installed after the generator, which limits the voltage to 14.1±0.2V. In order for the battery to be charged to 100%, a voltage of at least 14.5 V must be supplied to it. Therefore, it is impossible to fully charge the battery with a car generator even during long trips and it becomes necessary to periodically charge the battery with a mains charger.
When it is warm outside, you can start the engine from a battery that is only 20% charged. When frost sets in, the battery capacity decreases by more than two times, and the starting current increases significantly due to thickened oil in the engine. As a result, if you don’t fully charge the car’s battery from an external charger before the onset of cold weather, then you may not be able to start the engine without “lighting up”.
In the standard charge mode recommended by battery manufacturers, the charge current should be 10% of the battery capacity, while a fully discharged battery needs to be charged for 15 hours. For example, with a battery capacity of 45 Ah, the charge current should be 4.5 A. It is better to charge with a lower current and for a longer time. For example, a battery with a capacity of 45 Ah is charged with a current of 2.8 A for 24 hours.
If the battery is discharged by 50%, then in the field "Enter the battery capacity" you need to enter the value of half of its factory capacity. For example, for a 60 Ah battery, you would enter 30 Ah.
As you can see, in order to correctly select the charging time for the battery, it is necessary to determine to what extent it is discharged. There are several ways available to the motorist, which are listed below.
If it is not possible to determine the residual capacity of the battery, then you can determine the moment of its full charge using a voltmeter. When, during battery charging, the voltage at its terminals stops increasing at a constant charge current for more than an hour, it means that the battery is 100% charged. The current consumed by the battery will begin to be spent only on its heating.
For modern maintenance-free batteries, the voltage should reach a value 16.2±0.1V, which depends on the charge current, battery capacity, electrolyte density and other factors, and therefore is a reference. With these measurements, you can use a voltmeter with any error, since it does not require an accurate measurement of voltage, but its constancy.
To determine the time and magnitude of the charging current, you need to know the degree of charge of the battery. Of the existing measurement methods, the following are available to the motorist:
It is impossible to accurately measure the degree of charge of the battery, since there is no method for practical use. You can only evaluate it by measuring the voltage at the battery terminals or the density of the electrolyte (only for batteries with liquid electrolyte).
The table shows the data for all types of acid batteries with a nominal voltage of 6, 12 and 24 V. The data correspond to a temperature of 20-25°C.
It is recommended to measure the voltage at the battery terminals at rest, not earlier than after six o'clock after disconnecting the battery from the car circuit or charger.
If there is a liquid electrolyte in the battery, then it is possible, in the presence of a hydrometer, to determine the degree of its charge by measuring the density of the electrolyte. The data in the table correspond to a temperature of 20-25°C. The voltage for which the battery is designed does not affect the density of the electrolyte.
Without waiting, you can check the state of charge of the battery by measuring the voltage at its terminals under load. For this, load plugs are used, which are a voltmeter with a resistance of 0.018-0.020 Ohm connected in parallel to its terminals (for a battery with a capacity of 40-60 Ah). The plug is connected to the battery terminals and after 5-7 seconds the voltmeter readings are taken.
The photo shows a battery capacity test using a VIN-10 load plug. Although the plug is the simplest, it allows you to assess the degree of battery charge with sufficient accuracy. The voltmeter showed 9.5 V. According to the data from the table below, we determine that the battery is 60% charged.
If there is no load plug and the battery is connected to the vehicle's on-board network, then you can load the battery by turning on the side lights and high beam headlights. Since the power of the headlight bulbs is at least 50 W, the load current will be at least 10 A. The measured voltage with a sufficiently charged battery should be at least 11.2V.
Another way to assess the degree of charge of the battery is to measure the voltage at its terminals during engine start. With a good starter, the voltage should not drop below 9.5V. If the voltage drops below 9.5V, the battery is very low and needs to be recharged. By the way, this method can determine the health of the starter. If a serviceable and fully charged battery is installed in the car, then a voltage drop at the battery terminals below 9.5 V during engine start indicates a malfunction in the starter.
Since the voltage value, depending on the degree of charge of the battery, changes in tenths of a volt, the voltmeter must also be of high accuracy. A voltmeter with a measurement error of only 1% will already give an error in the results of measuring the degree of charge of 10%. Therefore, to determine the degree of charge of the battery by voltage, a device with a measurement error of at least 0.1% is required.
In some models of car batteries, in order to be able to assess the degree of their charge, a hydrometric indicator is built in, which is a transparent eye, as in the photograph.
The hydrometric indicator allows you to assess the condition of the battery without instruments. If the indicator eye is green, it means that the battery is more than 60% charged. This degree of battery charge is quite sufficient for a confident start of the engine and the operation of the electrical equipment of the car.
If the eye is colorless and dark, as in the photo on the left, then the battery charge level is below 60%, and in order to start the engine without fail in any weather, the battery needs to be recharged from the charger. And if the indicator eye is colorless and light, the photo on the right, then the electrolyte level in this bank is below normal and distilled water should be added to it.
The hydrometric indicator is designed in such a way that if the electrolyte level in the battery bank is insufficient, it cannot work, and that's why.
The hydrometric indicator is a cork screwed into the body of one of the battery cans, in which a transparent tube (light guide) is installed. At the end of this tube, a V-shaped tube is fixed with a plastic sleeve, in which a green ball is placed. The light guide tube is hermetic, and electrolyte can flow freely into the V-shaped tube. The weight and volume of the ball are chosen in such a way that at an electrolyte density of 1.226 g/cm 3 at 20°C it floats (position 1 in the drawing), and rolls down to position 2 at a lower density. Thus, if the battery is charged by more than 60% , the ball is visible through the indicator eye, and if the degree of charge is less, then only the electrolyte is visible. If the electrolyte level drops below the V-shaped tube, the light entering through the indicator eye is reflected from the electrolyte surface and the reflected light is visible through the eye.
Unfortunately, the hydrometric indicator has a number of serious drawbacks, due to which the accuracy of its readings is low. The fact is that when the temperature of the electrolyte changes, its density changes greatly, and when the temperature decreases, it increases. Therefore, for example, at an air temperature of minus 30 ° C, the indicator will show that the battery is charged by 60%, but in reality only by 40%. In addition, the indicator monitors the status of only the battery cell in which it is installed, and the status of other cells can only be judged indirectly.
The battery is a constant current source and polarity must be observed when connecting it. The battery terminals are marked. The positive terminal is indicated by the sign " + ”, and the negative sign “ - ". The terminals of the charger for connecting the battery also have the same marking. When connecting the battery for charging, you need a positive terminal " + » battery connected to the positive terminal of the charger, and the negative « - "- with a negative. If you confuse the polarity of the connection, then the battery will be discharged instead of charging and even disable the charger.
The cross section of the wires for connecting the battery to the charger must be at least 1 mm 2, which corresponds to the diameter of the wire, excluding insulation, 1.3 mm.
Before charging, the battery removed from the car must be cleaned of dirt and its surfaces wiped to remove acid residues with a cloth moistened with an aqueous solution of soda, prepared at the rate of a tablespoon of soda per glass of water. If there is acid on the surface, then the aqueous solution of soda foams.
If the battery has plugs for filling acid, then all the plugs must be unscrewed so that the gases formed in the battery during charging can escape freely. Be sure to check the electrolyte level, and if it is less than required, add distilled water.
According to the theory, you can charge the battery with a current that does not have enough capacity until it is fully charged. That is, if the battery has a capacity of 50 Ah and is half charged, then at the first moment of charging, you can set the current to 25 A and decrease it every minute, down to zero when fully charged. Some automatic chargers work on this principle, allowing you to fully charge a car battery in just a few hours. But these chargers are very expensive. And the need for them will not arise if you charge the battery in advance.
Although some chargers allow you to charge in semi-automatic mode, I still prefer to charge the battery in manual mode. As a rule, the battery is no more than half discharged, so knowing its capacity, it is not difficult to calculate the charge time. For example, for a 50 Ah battery, to fully charge it, you need to apply a current of 30 Ah, taking into account losses. I set the charge current to 3 A, and after 10 hours the battery will be fully charged. To ensure that the battery is fully charged, if time permits, you can set the current to 0.5 A and continue charging the battery in this mode as time permits. For high-capacity car batteries, this charge current is safe.
If time is running out, then you can first charge the battery with a current, say, 8 A for three hours, and then reduce the current to 6 A and charge for another hour. The battery will be charged in just 4 hours. But, all the same, the optimal mode for charging is a small current, 2-3 A. With this current, overcharging and overheating of the battery are excluded, which greatly reduce its service life. All ingenious charging methods to reduce sulfation of battery plates, as practice shows, are nothing more than theory. If the battery operation mode is observed (full discharge is not allowed), a high-quality acid battery will last from 3 to 5 years, seven at best.
Yes, it is acceptable, but not in all cases. During charging, the battery heats up, and after a while the temperature of the electrolyte will become above zero. In winter, you drive a car at a negative air temperature, and the generator regularly recharges the battery even at a temperature of minus 30˚С.
It is unacceptable to charge the battery if it was in a severely discharged state in the cold and the electrolyte turned into ice, which can form already at a temperature of minus 10 ° C. A frozen battery must be moved to a warm room and only charged after the ice has melted.
I am often asked about the possibility of charging a car battery with chargers designed to charge mobile phones, cameras and similar devices.
These chargers are not suitable for charging car batteries. the following reasons.
A necessary condition for the current from the charger to flow into the battery is the presence of a voltage at the output of the charger that exceeds the voltage at the battery terminals. For a 12V battery, the output voltage of the charger must be at least 14V. And the output voltage of most mobile phone chargers is 1.5-6V.
The laptop charger has an output voltage of 18 V, but if it is connected directly to the car battery terminals, this will be tantamount to a short circuit of the unit's terminals, the protection will work and the current will not flow. This is due to the fact that the internal resistance of a car battery is a few ohms and the direct connection of the charger is tantamount to short circuiting its terminals.
But if you turn on a light bulb from the headlight of a car in a break in one of the wires, then it will act as a current limiter and in this case the car battery can be charged. True, the charging current will not exceed 2 A and it will be needed to charge a fully discharged battery with a capacity of 50 Ah by 50% for about 20 hours.
When charging the battery, the voltage at its terminals can reach, depending on the type of charger, up to 16 V. Even when the ignition key is removed from the ignition, some devices still remain connected, for example, an alarm system, interior light, trunk light. Other devices may be connected depending on the vehicle model. Thus, instead of the maximum allowable supply voltage according to the passport, more will be supplied to the devices, which can lead to their failure. Thus, if you are not sure that all devices are de-energized when the key is removed from the ignition, then it is better not to risk it and disconnect its negative terminal from the on-board network before charging the battery.
Why negative? Because the negative terminal of the battery is connected to the vehicle's on-board network by direct connection to the body using a threaded connection. If you turn off, the positive battery terminal first, then you can accidentally touch the metal parts of the engine or car body with a wrench. You will get a short circuit.
No one is immune from the case when a donor battery is needed to start the engine of their own car, or, as they say, “light it up”. Usually they connect the battery terminals of the same name to each other with wires with crocodiles, add gas, and start the engine of another car, leaving your own running. Such "lighting up" can disable the electronics of modern car electrical equipment and you should not be surprised if a malfunction occurs in your car immediately or after some time. But what is the right way to “smoke”? The answer is very simple.
In winter, before you give a “light”, you need to start your car and warm up the engine for at least five minutes. Stop the engine. In a car that has run out of battery, you must first disconnect the terminal from the negative terminal of the battery, and then connect the wires for lighting to the positive terminal and to the removed terminal from the negative terminal of the battery.
Since the current consumed by the starter when starting the engine is about 100 A, the cross section of the cigarette lighter wires must be at least 10 mm 2, which corresponds to a wire diameter without insulation of 3.6 mm.
Connect the other ends of the wires to the terminals of the donor battery. Start the engine, let it run for a couple of minutes, and, without stopping, disconnect the “cigarette lighter” wires.
The generated electricity from the car generator is enough to power all the electrical equipment of the car. Connect the negative terminal of the on-board network to the standard battery.
For faster battery recharging, it is necessary to try to drive in low gears to ensure at least 3000 rpm of the engine shaft. At this speed, the car's generator will produce enough current to power the electrical equipment and charge the battery.
To guarantee the next start of the engine after it has cooled down, it is necessary to immediately fully charge the battery from the charger.
Negative. A full discharge is especially dangerous for modern maintenance-free batteries. As manufacturers of such batteries warn, even a one-time full discharge can damage the battery. From personal experience I will say that I happened to discharge a maintenance-free battery to zero twice (I forgot to turn off the marker lights in the summer), but there were no serious consequences. True, I did not allow the third time, I put a signaling device, which, when the driver's door was opened with the engine turned off, but the dimensions and headlights turned on, emitted a signal.
The storage time of a fully charged battery disconnected from the vehicle's on-board network depends on its capacity. Internal leakage currents are about 10 mAh. Knowing this, it is easy to calculate the time. Taking into account the permissible discharge of the battery up to 30% of the original capacity, for a 50 Ah battery we get 50 / 3.3 = 16 Ah - this is the permissible degree of discharge. This means that the battery can give a capacity of 50 Ah-16 Ah = 34 Ah for self-discharge. Now we divide 34 Ah by 0.01 Ah and it turns out 3400 hours or 141 days, about 5 months. At the same time, it should be taken into account that storage of a discharged battery at a temperature below minus 10 ° C is unacceptable, since the density of the electrolyte will decrease and it will turn into ice, which will deform the battery and disable it.
If the battery is connected to the car's on-board network, then due to leakage currents in electrical equipment, the period will be halved, and will already be 2.5 months.
If an alarm is connected, it also consumes current, which, depending on the model of the security system, ranges from 0.02 Ah to 0.05 Ah. The current consumption of the alarm can be found in its passport. In this case, the time, at a current consumption of 0.02 A h by the alarm, the time will be 1.2 months, and at a current of 0.05 A h, only 20 days. At negative air temperatures, the time will be halved and will be only 10 days.
Sometimes motorists complain that a fully charged battery, even when the car is not in use, is quickly discharged and after a week of inactivity, the engine cannot be started. One of the reasons for this behavior of the car may be a large leakage current in electrical equipment.
To measure the leakage current of electrical equipment, it is necessary to remove the terminal from the negative terminal of the battery and, in the gap between the terminal of the battery and the removed terminal, turn on, observing the polarity, DC ammeter, as shown in the photo. In order not to hold the multimeter probe in your hand, it is advisable to use a piece of copper wire with a bare wire twisted at the end into a ring along the diameter of the battery terminal.
During measurements, all electrical appliances must be turned off (the key must not be in the ignition), including the burglar alarm disconnected from the car circuit. If the current exceeds 10 mA, there is a fault in the wiring or equipment.
If it is difficult to turn off the alarm, then measurements can be taken without turning it off. Then the ammeter will show the total current - the leakage current in the electrical equipment and consumed by the alarm, the value of which should lie within 50-100 mA. If the current is greater, then there is a malfunction in the wiring or electrical equipment of the machine.
As you can see in the photo, the total current consumption in this car is 50 mA. When measured, the readings will increase by a few milliamps at approximately one second intervals. This is normal and is related to the operation of the security alarm system. In this case, the current consumption from the battery will be the same, both when the alarm system is turned on using the key fob, and when it is turned off. When the security alarm is turned on and off, due to the current consumption of the central locking system, a current surge of up to 3-5 A will be observed for a couple of seconds. And if a current of this magnitude flows for a longer time, then one of the door activators is faulty.
Sooner or later, every motorist is faced with the need to replace the battery in the car. When buying a new battery, consider the following points:
– dimensions battery and the possibility of fixing it in your car;
– The order of the positive and negative terminals on the battery;
– Date of issue if you do not find the release date on the label or more than 3 months have passed from the date of issue, then it is better not to buy such a battery;
– Battery voltage and capacity in Ah. The capacity should be equal, and preferably larger than that of a regular battery.
All statements that with a larger capacity there will be more wear on the starter brush-collector assembly have nothing to do with reality. According to Ohm's law, current in a circuit is directly proportional to voltage and inversely proportional to resistance. The starter resistance did not change with an increase in battery capacity, the voltage did not change either. Consequently, the value of the starting current will remain the same and there can be no additional wear of the brush-collector assembly of the starter when installing a battery of a larger capacity, by definition;
– Cold crank inrush current at −18°C in Amps (A), the more the better. For reference, the minimum and the same starting current for different standards is marked with different values: DIN (Europe, Russia) - 170 A, EN (Europe, Russia) - 280 A, SEA (USA) - 300 A;
– Battery type it doesn’t matter if you like to do chemistry (add distilled water to the battery banks, measure the density of the electrolyte with a hydrometer), take an ordinary battery. Otherwise, buy a maintenance-free battery;
– You need to buy a battery in specialized car dealerships. The more expensive it is, the better it is usually. Take care to enter the date of sale of the battery, sealed with a seal, in the warranty card.
And it’s easier, in order not to ask numerous questions, you need to copy (photograph) its type from the label of the old battery and purchase the same one.
To do this, you need to start the car engine and, without turning on electrical appliances, by changing the engine speed (by manipulating the gas pedal), measure the voltage at the battery terminals. The voltage value must be within 13.9V-14.3V. If the voltage at high engine speeds is less than the specified value, then the generator or relay-regulator is faulty, it is possible that the tension of the belt that transmits torque from the engine shaft to the generator has loosened. If the voltage is higher, then the relay-regulator is faulty and it needs to be repaired or replaced. At low engine speeds, the voltage may be less than 13.9 V and this is normal.
To check the health of the car's generator, you need to remove the terminal from the negative terminal of the battery when the engine is warm. Further, without pressing the gas pedal, turn on the main beam, the stove fan and the rear window heater in sequence. The engine should continue to run stably, only slightly reducing speed. If, when the next device is turned on, the engine stalls, then you need to restart it and do the above steps, after increasing the speed to 1500. If the generator is working properly, the engine should not stall.
Yes. When the battery in your car is dead and you “light up” your car from the battery of another car to start the engine, you practically connect two batteries in parallel (it’s not right to “light up” like that). It is possible to install in a car and connect two or more car batteries in parallel, while their capacity and technical condition do not matter. The main thing is that they are designed for the same voltage and are in good condition. Both batteries must be fully charged before connecting in parallel. In the future, during operation, if you need to charge the battery, then you will need to charge both batteries. It will be possible to first remove and charge one battery so as not to leave the car without a security device, and then the second.
Some car enthusiasts are too lazy to fix the battery after charging or replacing. As a result, during sharp maneuvers of the car, the plastic case of the battery can be damaged by the sharp edges of the car body parts and become unusable. The constant movement of the battery while driving leads to friction of its walls against the body of the body, which can lead to the same consequences. In addition, due to battery movement, the conductive wires are constantly bent, which can lead to breakage. In the event of a serious accident, where the loose battery will fly and the severity of the possible consequences is difficult to say. The conclusion is obvious, the battery must be securely fastened.
When charging a car battery, it is usually removed from the car while charging. In this case, the car remains without an electronic security alarm system. Rarely does anyone have a spare car battery to replace. But it is not necessary to have it, you can get by with a small capacity 12V battery, for example, from an uninterruptible power supply for computer equipment. After all, when electrical appliances are turned off, the current consumption by the car circuit does not exceed 0.01 Ah, and if the alarm is on, it increases to a maximum of 0.05 Ah. So for a full replacement for a day, any battery with a capacity of even 1.2 Ah is suitable. even an unsuitable UPS battery due to loss of capacity. Before use, a replacement battery must be charged and its performance checked. To check, it is enough to connect a light bulb from the headlight of the car to the battery terminals. If the bulb shines at full strength, then the battery is suitable for replacement.
To connect the battery, you first need to prepare the wires for connecting to the vehicle's on-board electrical wiring, equip the ends of the wires with terminals, and remove the insulation by 8-10 cm.
Next, you need to remove the standard battery and place the prepared battery from UPS in its place. Observing the polarity, wrap the standard lugs for connecting the battery with the stripped ends of the wires. Put the terminals on the contacts of the temporary battery. Make sure that the positive tip does not accidentally come into contact with metal parts of the vehicle.
It remains to close the hood, doors and put the car on the alarm from the key fob. Central locking will also work. While the battery is charging, the security system will successfully perform the task assigned to it.
Any motorist knows how important a battery is to a vehicle. It will not be superfluous to study the nuances of recharging, because otherwise the ability to travel by car is simply lost.
Many are interested in whether it is necessary to charge a car battery after purchase, because this topic is quite specific. First of all, it must be checked for operability and the likely presence of various defects. The minimum voltage at the terminals is 12 volts. If this parameter is lower, then additional charging will be required. The current charge level is also indicated by the density of the electrolyte, which can be checked using a special plug. The date of manufacture is also important. If the battery was produced more than six months ago, then it is better to completely refuse to purchase it.
Only after making sure that all of the above indicators are normal, you can install and safely use the purchased battery. It is better to do this as soon as possible, because during long-term storage, even new models can be discharged. Charging a new battery is only necessary in very rare situations. In the vast majority of cases, new models are completely ready for operation.
Charging selection criteria:
Understanding how to properly charge the battery is not difficult. It is more important to choose the most suitable device for this task. To date, there are transformer, as well as pulse chargers. The first option attracts the attention of consumers due to its reliability, but at the same time it has too impressive dimensions. Pulse models are more compact, but it is important to carefully choose the manufacturer, because this affects the reliability of the device.
Experienced motorists know perfectly well not only how to charge a car battery, but also carry out thorough preparation. Quite often, the battery can not even be removed from the vehicle. True, for this there must be an outlet nearby. It is imperative to disconnect the negative and positive wires from the device. You can also do without removing the battery. These processes are still not too complicated, because the fastenings are quite simple.
Some citizens believe that a cold battery must first be warmed up, and only then start charging. In this situation, it is absolutely impossible to place it in hot water. This action will lead to serious problems. The fact is that due to a serious temperature difference, the active masses of the plates will begin to crumble. Also, do not attempt to remove and install batteries while the engine is running. This will cause problems with the electrical equipment installed on the vehicle.
In order not to be interested in whether it is possible to charge a charged battery, you must first check its current condition. Any charging process is divided into two most basic stages. First of all, you should set the current correctly. The value in this case should be equal to a tenth of the total battery capacity. With this approach, charging will continue for 20 hours. After that, the current should be halved and the device should not be disconnected from the battery for about two more hours. It is important in this situation only to ensure that the temperature indicators are normal.
As for maintenance-free and sealed batteries, they are faced with charging at a constant and stable voltage. The basic rules for implementing this procedure in this situation remain the same. Depending on the battery voltage, it is necessary to set the value of the charging current.
Oddly enough, but car owners do not pay enough attention to the battery. Turns the starter - and it's good. However, sooner or later the time comes when your pet's "second heart" starts to falter, or even freezes altogether, refusing to turn the starter.
During daily trips by car, it is hardly necessary to look under the hood at every stop and measure the density of the electrolyte in the battery. Battery problems are most likely to be detected after a long period of parking of the car or when using energy consumers without moving. In such cases, it is necessary to check the electrolyte level in the banks and measure its density.
It would not be superfluous to carry out such operations in the cold and hot seasons, since in cold weather the density of the electrolyte in the battery should be higher than in hot weather. Moreover, in hot weather, the electrolyte actively boils away and periodically topping up with distilled water to a certain level is required.
Car battery operation requires periodic recharging. Of course, it is best to detect a drop in the density of the electrolyte or a decrease in its amount in banks in time and start topping up and recharging without waiting for the moment when the car cannot be started. However, in practice, everything is easier, and the signal for battery maintenance is most often the slow rotation of the starter when starting the car.
Every car enthusiast knows well that if the battery is not taken care of in such a situation, then the next morning the car will not budge, and the culprit of the stop will begin to shorten his life at a progressive pace.
You can charge the battery of your car at a service station, but this is not a very convenient option, although the work will be carried out by specialists, and it is hoped that they will do everything “according to science”. The main inconvenience is that the car will need to be left at the service station for some time - you won’t leave without a battery.
An easier option is to purchase a car charger and perform the operation to bring the battery to working condition on your own. There is nothing difficult in charging the battery on your own, you just need to carefully familiarize yourself with the recommendations for performing the necessary operations and follow the fire safety rules. It is best to charge the battery in the garage, the option of working in the kitchen is not excluded. In some cases, it is possible to charge the battery without removing it from the car.
Lead-acid batteries can be successfully charged with DC rectifiers. It is desirable that the devices have voltage and current regulators, since with their help it will be possible to select the optimal modes for a specific charging task.
Before proceeding directly to charging the battery, you should carefully measure the electrolyte level and its density. To carry out these operations, it is necessary to remove the battery from the car, clean it from dust and dirt, remove possible traces of oxidation on the terminals and, if necessary, clean them with fine sandpaper, then unscrew the caps in the banks
and proceed with the appropriate measurements.
Attention, be sure to unscrew the control plugs in order to avoid an explosion !!!High chance of battery explosion. The consequence of carelessness in the video.
On transparent battery cases, there are max and min marks on the sides, which indicate what the electrolyte level in the banks should be. Accordingly, it is necessary to add distilled water to jars where the electrolyte level is noticeably low. In opaque batteries, it is convenient to check the electrolyte level with a glass tube. The tube must be lowered inward to the stop and pressed on top with a finger. Take it out and look at the electrolyte level in it. Should be about 10-15 mm.
At the next stage, the density of the electrolyte is checked using a hydrometer. The hydrometer is a glass flask with a rubber pear at one end and a hole at the other for suction of electrolyte from battery cans. Inside the device is a float with marks. When taking the electrolyte, the float floats up and indicates the level of its density. The density of the electrolyte of a fully charged battery should be 1.27-1.28 g/cm3.
If the density is lower than recommended, then the battery should be charged. To do this, the battery must be placed on a flat surface and connect the appropriate terminals of the charger to the plus and minus of the battery, and then plug the charger into the network. The caps of the jars should not be screwed into place during charging. It is better to cover the holes with them, since during charging the electrolyte will boil, and hydrogen will be actively released.
To the question how long does it take to charge a car battery- there is no clear answer. It all depends on the capacity of the battery itself and the depth of its discharge. However, there general rules which must be strictly observed. First, the battery charging current cannot be higher than 1/10 of the battery capacity. In other words, if you need to charge a twelve-volt battery with a capacity of 45 Ah, then the charge current cannot be higher than 4.5 A. By the way, with the maximum possible charge current, the time to bring the battery to working condition is significantly reduced. Use such currents for charging should be in the event that the battery is not very discharged. With a deep discharge of the battery, the charge current is reduced to 1.5 - 2.0 A, but at the same time the procedure time is increased, up to about a day.
Secondly, the process of charging the battery must be under constant control. It is necessary to periodically measure the density of the electrolyte in the jars and measure its temperature. The temperature of the electrolyte must not exceed +45°C. When such parameters are reached, the charge current must be halved, or even stopped charging for a while.
Thirdly, the density of the electrolyte in individual banks, upon reaching a full charge, should not differ by more than 0.01 g/cm3. The difference in indicators is equalized by adding distilled water to those banks where the density of the electrolyte is higher.
Fourthly, the battery is considered fully charged if after the charging procedure it is able to keep the density and voltage stable for two hours or more.
Car enthusiasts who operate maintenance-free batteries in their cars periodically face the need to charge them. They should remember that for charging maintenance-free batteries, the important indicator is not the charging current, but the charging voltage.
The charger must be set to a voltage of 14.4 volts and the process controlled. The battery will be charged when there is a voltage of 14.4 volts at the terminals, and the current drops to 200mA.
If a maintenance-free battery has a deep discharge, it can be recharged in two stages. Initially, the voltage of 12-13 volts is set on the charger, and the current is not more than 1/20 of the battery capacity. The current parameters will first grow and when they reach the mark of 1/10 of the battery capacity, the charging should be switched to a voltage of 14.4 volts and wait until the current strength is within 0.2 A. It is important to remember that raising the charging voltage of a maintenance-free battery above 15 .5 volts is not recommended to avoid damage to the latter.
Battery storageDuring the period when the car is not used for a long time, you need to worry about the special storage conditions for the battery. First, the battery must be removed from the car, cleaned of dirt, wiped.
Second, fully charge.
In winter, a fully charged battery is best stored in a cool, not warm room. If the battery is not used for a long time, then its condition is periodically checked and brought to a working state.
Remember, storing the battery in a discharged state will significantly shorten its life.
During daily operation of the machine, the battery is charged automatically from the generator, and if everything is in order with the generator, then the battery works for a long time and without problems. Motorists are familiar with the sound of a serviceable car starting up and it is perhaps better than any music. Unfortunately, for many car owners, the idyll ends soon, and they themselves are to blame for this. Improper operation and untimely maintenance can damage even the most reliable battery.
The car battery provides power to the elements of the car. During its movement, charging is carried out using a generator. However, he will not be able to fully replenish the energy. Therefore, periodic maintenance of the battery is necessary. To do this, you should know how to properly charge the car battery with a charger at home.
The determining parameters are the characteristics of the battery - voltage (6, 12 or 4 V), battery type (flooded, dry-charged, gel and lead acid). According to the latest quality, it is recommended to choose universal models suitable for all types of batteries. Additionally, the nominal capacity indicator is taken into account - Ah. 
According to the functionality, the memory is divided into two classes:
For beginners, it is recommended to buy simple charger models, without additional parameter adjustment functions. If the motorist has a lot of experience, he will need a professional charger with an indication, the ability to adjust the current and voltage. Any model should have the option of protection against overheating, incorrect connection.
How often a battery is charged determines its lifespan. Ideally, it should be connected to the charger no more than once a year. But in fact it depends on many external factors. If the frequency is chosen incorrectly and there is no control over the current state of the battery, the opposite effect will be observed - a rapid decrease in capacity. 
Facts affecting battery charging frequency:
The minimum battery charge to start the power plant is individual. But usually it should not be less than 12.3 volts. If this value is less - the charge will not be enough, you will need to connect to the charger. On average, 70-75% of the maximum charge is sufficient for normal battery operation. It is recommended to restore it to 100% once a year, before the start of the winter period.
There are two main ways to charge a battery - by changing the direct current or voltage. The choice depends on the functionality of the charger, the need to control the process, its speed and the degree of charging. 
Before starting, the following conditions must be met:
After that, you can start the charging process. It is recommended to do this in a room with room temperature and good ventilation. In the process of increasing the charge, electrolyte vapors will be released.
The essence of this method is to control the current value by adjusting it depending on the current battery charge. For novice motorists, it is difficult, since changes in the indicator depend on the actual state of the battery. It is recommended to apply if there is a possibility of constant control of the process. 
It is best to consider the essence of this method using the example of a battery with a capacity of 60A * h. Recommended course of action.
In this way, you can charge the battery to a level from 70% to 100%. In the latter case, it is necessary to control the value of the battery charge level and current strength. If the first remains unchanged for two hours, this is a sign of a full charge.
The best way if there is no way to constantly monitor the process. It should be borne in mind that the value of the battery charge in this case is proportional to the applied voltage. For a preliminary calculation of the time, it is necessary to divide the applied voltage by 1.11. 
Consider this process using a standard 12 V battery as an example, depending on the required degree of charge for a duration of 24 hours:
Important - the value of the charging current should not exceed 25 A. For this, the charger must be equipped with a circuit that limits this parameter. It is in all factory models, but if a home-made device is used, this moment needs to be tracked.
In addition to the parameter values on the charger and battery terminals, it is recommended to additionally control the density of the electrolyte. This is done using a special device - a hydrometer. 
For standard battery accepted the following values electrolyte density depending on the degree of charge:
It is important to check this indicator in all banks. If for any reason a short circuit occurs in one of them, the electrolyte density value will be much less than the others. It is also necessary to take into account the error of the hydrometer, the degree of its suitability for verification, the range of measured values. Additionally, this device can be used to monitor the condition of the coolant.
A proven method for restoring battery health without using a special device is to “light it up” from another battery. It is important that they have the same current values. Otherwise, the fuses or part of the vehicle's electrical wiring will fail. 
This can be done using the following algorithm.
This method will be effective if the battery charge level is not lower than critical. Otherwise, starting the engine and on-board systems will not be possible.
It is also not recommended to use homemade chargers made on the basis of household charging blocks from a laptop or mobile phone. It is almost impossible to control the main values of current and voltage during the charging process. This can lead to negative consequences. It is best to purchase a cheap but reliable factory model of memory.
